Talking of vegetables, can the inhabited globe offer anything to vie with the English potato justly steamed? I do not say that it is always -- or often -- to be seen on our tables, for the steaming of a potato is one of the great achievements of culinary art; but, when it is set before you, how flesh and spirit exult! A modest palate will find more than simple comfort in your boiled potato of everyday, as served in the decent household. New or old, it is beyond challenge delectable. Try to think that civilized nations exist to whom this food is unknown -- nay, who speak of it on hearsay, with contempt! Such critics, little as they suspect it, never ate a potato in their lives. What they have swallowed under that name was the vegetable with all its exquisite characteristics vulgarized or destroyed. Picture the "ball of flour" (as old-fashioned housewives call it) lying in the dish, diffusing the softest, subtlest aroma, ready to crumble, all but to melt, as soon as it is touched; recall its gust and its after-gust, blending so consummately with that of the joint, hot or cold. Then think of the same potato cooked in any other way, and what sadness will come upon you!
谈到蔬菜,在人类居住的这个地球上,有什么东西能与蒸煮得怡到好处的英国马铃薯一较高下呢?我并不是说在我们的餐桌上总是一一或经常——能够见到它;蒸煮马铃薯是烹饪艺术的伟大成就之一,当它摆在你面前的时候,会使人感到怎样的身心舒畅啊!在体面的家庭中,即使是一个味觉最普通的人,也能从日常食用的煮马铃薯中得到非凡的快慰感。无论是新鲜的马铃薯,还是陈马铃薯,都美昧无比。试想一下,竟然会有对这种食物一无所知的文明国家——不仅如此,他们还根据道听途说而对其轻蔑地嘲讽!这些批评家一生中从未吃过真正的马铃薯,却对那些谣言深信不疑。他们吞食的所谓“马铃薯”,只是一种美好之处全部被庸俗化或被破坏的蔬菜而巳。想象一下盘中的“面粉球”(老派的家庭主妇就是这样称呼它的),散发着最柔和、最微妙的香气,一触即碎,人口即化。将它与肉块完美地混合在一起,冷食热食皆可一一回想一下食用时的味觉享受和它留给人的无穷回味吧!再想想用其他方法烹制的同样的马铃薯,你该会感到怎样的悲哀啊!
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